Wednesday, 16 July 2025

Sneinton and Me 8 - The Bedsit, Castle Street and Sneinton Hollows


Castle Street, where I had a bedsit during my time at uni, is a street of quirky nineteenth century houses of great character. The pub at the end was run by the local developer Peter Elliot Bates for many years around the turn of the twentieth century. 

My bedsit was in number 12, 'Jasmine Cottage', a house dating back to Georgian times. For more than 30 years at the end of the 19th century it was home to Frederick Pullman, of Pullman's drapery store on Lower Parliament Street1. I took this photo from the end of Meadow Lane when I was living there in the seventies. The arrow shows the window of my flat.

The photo below shows the same area, taken around 1895 from a slightly different viewpoint. 















The 25 inch OS map of 1901 shows Jasmine Cottage (A) and the farmyard (B). The days of the farmyard were numbered. The Manvers estate were selling the land for development at this time, and soon it would be replaced by a church, a new road and houses.


Here it is in 1913 on the OS 25 inch map, the farmyard having been bisected by Sneinton Boulevard. It remains much the same today, though the church has been through many changes of use since then.


This record of land sales from the Manvers manuscripts at Nottingham University shows building plots superimposed on the original outline defined in the 18th century Sneinton Enclosure Act - the boundary of Shepherd's Farmyard (shown in green). 





This Georgian hob grate was revealed behind the backplate when the gas fire in my flat was replaced in 1977.
 The house has been upgraded since so I imagine it is long gone.



And below is the view from that window in my flat one Winter morning in the mid 1970s, overlooking what was, in the 1890s, the Farmyard.





And here's the same view in Spring. I wonder if Mr Pullman's family planted the cherry tree.









Notes

 1/ Frederick Pullman and Henry Cooper 

Pullman was involved in many businesses around Nottingham, including a directorship at Thomas Danks, builders' merchants, where my mate Dave started work in the sixties. He was also Sheriff of Nottingham in 1889/90 and a few years later was elected Lord Mayor. I am indebted to him for my Thursday afternoons off when I was a shop worker, as he was president of Nottingham's Thursday Half Holiday campaign for some years. The house next door to Jasmine Cottage is got up with battlements and a tower (seen in the 1895 picture above); we used to call it Cooper's Castle. I didn't know who Cooper was then,  but I do now - he was Henry Cooper of Cooper and Rowe's Eagle Works on Carlton Road, which is still there though not making textiles any more. There's much more about these guys by Stephen Best at the Nottinghamshire History website - and about Sneinton and Nottingham in general - well worth a bit of Googling.

Photos:

1895 photo: https://picturenottingham.co.uk/

Other photos: WhysWhys

Maps: National Library of Scotland: https://maps.nls.uk/

Manvers Land Sales Plans: Manvers Mss at Nottingham University


Sneinton and Me 7 - Peter Elliot Bates - Property Developer

 

(This article was first published in Sneinton Magazine, issue 38, Spring 1991)

Peter Elliot Bates never achieved international fame. He was not unique: there were (and are) many others like him. Yet the achievements of his long career are very much with us today. He was a small-time property developer.

His houses can be seen in Holborn Avenue, Baden Powell Road, Durham Avenue, Ladysmith Street and other locations in the area. He was not a builder by trade – he was the licensee of the Old Wrestler's pub at the junction of Castle Street and Sneinton Hollows for at least 15 years, and had before that carried on business as a baker. His property developments were in partnership with a builder called Richard Barry.

At the end of the eighteenth century, cities in Britain began to grow at breakneck speed – and have continued to do so ever since. Thousands upon thousands of humble dwellings were built to house the working classes of the new industrial era.

The entrepreneurs who provided this housing were themselves not very far up the social ladder. A shopkeeper, a publican or a small businessman with some savings would invest in the building of a few houses to provide income from rents.

Much of the housing provided in this way was terrible, and has been cleared away during the slum clearances after the two wars. But towards the end of the last century [i.e. the 19th century], laws were passed laying down minimum standards in house building. Under the control of these regulations, Bates and his kind built the superior quality terraces that survive today.

It is through the paperwork of the building regulations that we can begin to trace the careers of the spec builders, because they had to apply for planning approval, and their applications still exist, preserved at County Records Office.

I first came across Bates and Barry when I went through the Planning Permission applications for 1900 to 1905. It became apparent that they were among the most active builders in Sneinton during that busy period, with expansion into the allotments and open spaces between the old village and the suburban railway line.

I looked at applications for a total of 486 houses in the Dale and Boulevard area. These were entered for 34 builders. Of these, 23 applied for fewer than 10 houses; 4 for between 10 and 20 houses and 7 for more than 20. The biggest operator was the building firm of Elliot and Attewell, who applied for approval for 98 houses. Bates and Barry were second with 54.

The researching of detailed biography was not part of what I was doing, but I could not resist a digression to find out a bit more about Bates – using some simple sources to build up a rough outline of his life and career.

Back in those days, local directories existed, rather like the Thomson directory of today, but much more comprehensive. They contained an enormous number of entries, classified by trade, by name and by address.

When I consulted Wright's Directory of 1905/6 I found listed,

'Peter Elliot Bates, v. [i.e. victualler] Old Wrestlers, 15 Sneinton Hollows.'

This place ceased to be a pub long ago, but is still there at the junction of the Hollows and Castle Street, having recently been tidied up with a coat of rendering.

The next job was to track back through earlier directories to find a time when he wasn't licensee of the Wrestlers, so as to establish roughly when he took the pub. Wright's of 1900/01 lists him as the landlord, but the directory of 1895 tells us that the Wrestlers was kept by Robert Woodruffe. So we know that he took over the Wrestlers some time between 1895 and 1900.

If his name had been John Smith it might have been impossible to trace him back any further than this , but a check for his distinctive name in the alphabetical list of Kelly's Directory of 1895 tells us that he was a baker. His address was 102 Sneinton Road. (Later Harry Day's bakery.)

And White's Directory of 1888 also lists Bates as a baker but gives his address as 9, Roden Street, Carlton Road. This is the earliest reference to him I could find – a lacemaker called Underwood was living there in 1885/6.

My grandparents lived in Sneinton during the first three-quarters of this [the 20th] century, so having got this far, I asked them if they remembered Peter Bates. They did. My grand father described him as a '...big grey haired man who used to sit on a deckchair on a piece of wasteland that belonged to him in front of Belvoir Terrace.' He said he kept the Wrestlers.

My grandfather worked for the billposting firm of Mills and Rockley. At one time he tried to persuade Bates to allow the use of his land for advertising hoardings. Bates refused, saying it was his intention to build on it. We know that he never carried out this intention, and the 'wasteland' remains unbuilt on to this day. He must have changed his mind about the advertising though – I remember the land being fronted by hoardings during my childhood in the fifties. 

I decided to check the directories of the late 1920's to see if Bates had an entry for an address on Belvoir Hill at that time. He did: Sneinton Mill Bungalow. A check in the planning applications revealed that it was he who built it – around 1928. I followed the address up in later directories and after 1932 he is not mentioned there. Nor could I find any other mention of him, so perhaps we can assume this is about the time he died – unless he moved out of the area.

Early in 1905, he put in an application for a pair of semi-detached villas in Durham Avenue. In March his application was disapproved because of a query as to the street – which was then unmade. A subsequent application submitted in April has with it a letter from Booker's (Bates' architects). '… The Avenue is not sewered or paved, if anything towards pulling [sic] the same into proper state of repair, Mr Bates is willing to do what he can … ' He also offers to donate the land fronting the house to any future scheme for widening the Avenue. This application was passed.

Bates lived in one of those houses, no. 2 Durham Villas, until 1916 according to the directories I have checked, and perhaps until he moved into his modern bungalow in 1928.

A little more checking in directories and planning applications finally resulted in this summary of his career:

1888 - Earliest discovered listing of Bates: a baker, living at 9, Roden Street, Carlton Road.

Between 1891 and 1895 – He takes over the bakery at 102 Sneinton Road. (listed under his name in 1895 and in the name of Mrs Eliz. Blood in 1891.

By 1900 – Licensee of the Wrestlers

1903 – He is building 27 houses on Ladysmith Street.

1903 – The bakery at 102 Sneinton Road is now listed as belonging to Alfred Bates – a relative?

1904 – He is building 6 houses on Baden Powell Road.

1904 – He is building 20 houses on Holborn Avenue.

1905 – He builds Durham Villas and moves into one of them. He continues as licensee of the Wrestlers.

1915/16 – Bates is still at Durham Villas, and he is still licensee of the Wrestlers. Alfred is still at 102 Sneinton Road.

1928 – He has moved into Sneinton Mill Bungalow.

1932 – Last listing of Bates at Sneinton Mill Bungalow.


The pioneering historian H J Dyos says in his book, Camberwell – a Victorian Suburb, 'The average Victorian suburb was the product of the unconcerted labour of many men...' Peter Bates was one of these. The graph lists 32 others (and women too). Some of these names will be familiar to some readers: my mother remembers Mrs Nall's bakery at the corner of Trent Road; the name Litchfield is commemorated in a street name (Calladine's name is not, it was decided to call the road Holborn Avenue instead); Albert Murfin was licensee of the Earl Howe; Whitings were pawnbrokers. These are some of the local individuals whose 'unconcerted labour' created the suburb of Sneinton.



'The average Victorian suburb was the product of the unconcerted labour of many men...' H J Dyos.

Below: sales of Manvers' land - a tracing taken from the Manvers manuscripts at Nottingham University. Bates and Barry are shown to have bought a parcel of land adjacent to Port Arthur Road for 6/3d (31p) a square yard. (A stark contrast to those prices of anything up to 36s (£1.80) a yard in the 1820s for inferior quality land in the town.)



Below:

A tracing of the block plan accompanying a planning application by Bates and Barry in 1903.










Below: The Old Wrestlers Inn at the junction of Castle Street and Sneinton Hollows where Peter Bates was licensee for many years


To see more of Sneinton and me scroll to the bottom and select 'Newer post' or the Left arrow 

Sneinton and Me 6 - The View from Fifty Years On


I wrote the dissertation just over 50 years ago in 1973, as part of my B/ed with History degree at Trent Polytechnic, which was at that time in York House, Mansfield Road. Next door, Victoria Station was being shovelled out of the way to make room for the Victoria Centre.

There was a vast amount of that sort of thing going on then. This screenshot from the title sequence of the 1973 BBC sitcom, Whatever Happened to the Likely Lads? shows a scene we all knew well. Children play in a remnant of the old and familiar; beyond the empty windows the future rears up.  Whole areas of the city were being remade. The walk into town from my parents' house took me through a rubble strewn wasteland. Crowded areas of houses shops and pubs were gone. Their streets lingered a while, defining plots which looked far too small to have ever accommodated them.

This, of course, wasn't the first slum clearance programme, but it was by far the biggest and most comprehensive. During the late nineteenth century there had been attempts to relieve the instant squalor created by cramming shoddy housing into restricted space to accommodate a rocketing population.

Though sometimes locally successful, these projects came nowhere near the scale needed to make any impression on the problem - and unaffordable rents caused by the requirement to turn a profit excluded many people who might have benefitted from them. 

By the twentieth century, governments had accepted that they had a responsibility in the matter and funds and legislation began to be provided for slum clearance and council housing. (1)


Fig.1
After the first world war an area of slum housing on the South West side of Manvers Street was demolished and replaced with a development centred on a new tram and bus depot. This was where Nottingham had first burst through into Sneinton a hundred years before, as described in the dissertation. Joseph Nall's  little plot is now under a bus garage. (2, Fig.1Soon, on the other side of Southwell Road, the streets between Sneinton Street (now Lower Parliament Street) and Sneinton Market were replaced by a wholesale fruit and vegetable market (see below), though the Fox and Grapes pub remains. 

Beginning in 1919 on Stockhill Lane, quality council housing started to appear. The council bought land at Aspley Hall and work began on the Aspley estate, where, later in the century, I was to work for many years. The era of council estate building was soon well under way – with time out for another world war.

In the 1950s things got going again, and I was now around to take notice. I lived the first 11 years of my life in that later Victorian phase of development, Sneinton Dale. I remember walking down the old Sneinton Road to the Albion Chapel Sunday School, Victoria Baths and Sneinton Market, where my Uncle George had a stall. In time, the process that had begun on the other side of Manvers Street thirty odd years before resumed on this side. Houses and shops emptied out and the demolishers moved in.

After Sneinton my family moved to Thorneywood -  Gordon Road, Bluebell Hill and St Ann's Well Road became the background to my life for the next fourteen years. Then it was their turn for demolition. And during my time at uni - when I was writing the dissertation - new housing was being built there. Soon, I was to spend five years teaching at schools in the newly built (and newly named) St Ann's. 

Below

In this 1931 photo the newly erected City Transport development is viewed from across the road in Pipe Street which, too, was soon to be redeveloped.

















The view from the same place in 2025: The Sneinton Market Avenues, created in the 'thirties as a wholesale fruit and vegetable market, are now 'Nottingham's Home for Creative and Independent Businesses' (3)

 


Below: OS map 25 inches to 1 mile 1881

A/ Pipe Street, demolished in the thirties, showing the approximate point from where the picture was taken. The street next to it, Nelson Street, still exists.

B/ Nall's plot, between Manvers Street and the Beck. This was obliterated by the 1920s City Transport development.

C/ Area redeveloped in the 1920s. 

D/ Much of this block, between Manvers Street, Southwell Road, Sneinton Road and Eyre Street remains, including the William IV pub on the corner of Eyre Street, now known as the King Billy.


Below:  Detail from a flyer offering property for sale between Abinger Street and Patriot Street ('C' in map above) on 29th September 1897 'to wind up a trust'. (4) Had a photograph been taken from the same spot a few years before that 1931 picture was taken, these properties would have been seen at the end instead of the transport building. Dwelling houses were sharing this tiny space with a slaughterhouse, a dyehouse and a butcher's shop. The shop and dyehouse were making £23.8s.0d (£23.40p) p.a. rent and the houses were making £53.6s.0d (£53.30). 


Sneinton Road as it was in 1908 and still was when I was a child. (5)


Sneinton Road as it was when I wrote the dissertation. The remaining block from the1820s development (marked D on the 1881 map) can be seen at the bottom. The Albion Chapel remains, on the left.


Sneinton road in 2025 - the 1820s buildings, tidied up, can be seen down at the end.





II

It wasn't all about slum clearance though

The number of people being displaced by demolition was only one of the drivers of demand for new houses at that time. After legislation was passed in the 1870s allowing councils to set building standards, and after the city boundary was extended in 1877 to take in some adjacent areas including Sneinton, better quality terrace housing went up all around the city including, of course, Sneinton Dale. This was intended as rental property, mostly for working class people, much of it built by small scale operators as an investment. (6) My maternal grandparents never owned a house but always lived in decent rented houses in Sneinton - as did my family until I was eleven. All my schoolmates at that age were living in rented accommodation, some in the decayed properties of the first phase of building; some in the better ones in the Dale. Very many of these people would soon be going out into the world and would be aspiring to move up to the next level - home ownership. 

The 1973 BBC sitcom, Whatever Happened to the Likely Lads?, written by Dick Clement and Ian La Frenais and starring James Bolam and Rodney Bewes, isn't only very funny – it's documentary. The series deals with two young working class men emerging from their carefree life as 60s teenagers to face adulthood and responsibility in that shifting world. Terry, home from overseas army service, is shocked and bewildered by the wreckage of the world he left behind two years before. His mate from schooldays, Bob, has stayed home and is thriving, with a desk job in the booming construction industry. He is engaged to be married and soon to move into a new-build bungalow. Taking Terry in hand, Bob tries to get him to embrace the new. Terry, appalled at what he sees as selling out, struggles to reconnect Bob with his youthful ideals, unconsciously subverting his new lifestyle.


That new lifestyle is poignantly evoked in Ray Davies' 1969 song, Shangri-La, by the Kinks:


'Now that you've found your paradise

This is your kingdom to command

You can go outside and polish your car

Or sit by the fire in your Shangri-La.


Here's your reward for working so hard

gone are the lavatories in the back yard...'


Bob wants more than a continuation of back street terrace life, outside toilets and a single cold tap in the kitchen. He sees that by working hard he can become a member of the home owning class. That would describe just about everyone I knew then. 


The 'Shangri-las', of course, weren't built on those demolition sites. They were usually built on greenfield sites around the edge of the city. The mix of people occupying them was varied – skilled tradesmen, higher earning factory workers, white collar workers, couples getting away from living with parents and so on. What they had in common was a decent wage and a degree of job security, enough to qualify for a mortgage.

 Mortgage lenders were sniffy about my job though – shop assistant – so in the late sixties when my fiancé and I wanted to marry and move into our own Shangri-La we had to embark on some ferocious saving. If we built up a really juicy deposit in a building society account they just might consider us. But we entered our names on the waiting list for a council house just in case. 


But it was not to happen. As the sixties closed, I became discontented. After spending most of that decade selling menswear I'd had enough. The thought of doing it for the next fifty years did not appeal. Increasingly, I felt short changed by my schooling. So to cut a long story short, instead of being a married couple living in a Shangri-La we became two students in widely different parts of the country and no longer a couple.

Despite having failed it at O Level, I had always been interested in history. I read a lot about it and had been intrigued by childhood brushes with historic places. (See my Like Enid Blyton posts) I lived among streets and pubs carrying the names of Georgian and Victorian military and naval heroes. I must also give some credit to one of the shop managers I worked for. He ran a tight shop and worked us hard. But when trade was slack he would ease up and give us down time. At those times he would send one of us to the library for a pile of books, and he liked history. Inevitably we would end up discussing and arguing about what we were reading.

So of course, at uni, I opted for History as my main subject. Then, early on in the course, I encountered one of those life changing books. It was Victorian Suburb: A Study of the Growth of Camberwell, by H.J.Dyos, published in 1966. I was gobsmacked. It was history like I'd never seen before. It could have been the story of my world – the people who made Victorian suburbs like mine had discoverable names and lives. More – they were like people I knew (7) Inevitably, I chose the history of working class housing for my in-depth study, focussing on Sneinton.

And, totally by chance, I moved back to Sneinton – a bedsitter in a characterful old house on that street of characterful old houses, Castle Street. Home for the next seven years.

I was back to walking down Sneinton Road, this time to York House. Now, though, the Sneinton Road I knew as a kid was gone.

And I began to find out how it got there in the first place.


***

For more of Sneinton and Me scroll down to the end and select 'Newer post' or the left arrow

(1) Housing, Town Planning &c  Acts, 1909 and 1919 for example. And Homes and Places by Chris Matthews is essential reading - a thorough yet highly readable history of Nottingham's council houses.

(2) See Sneinton and Me 5

(3) www.sneintonmarketavenues.com

(4) Stephen Best, Nottinghamshire History website

(5) Nottingham City Archives.

(6) See Sneinton and Me 7 - Peter Elliot Bates

(7) See also whysHistory, The Past is Right Behind Us

Photos

Pipe Street 1931https://picturenottingham.co.uk/

Sneinton Road - Stephen Best, Nottinghamshire History

The rest - WhysWhys

Maps - National Library of Scotland, https://maps.nls.uk/




Sneinton and Me 5 - Nottingham Spreads Into Sneinton


  • Whereas in other areas at this time growth was brought about by migrants from Nottingham, driven out by conditions and prices in the town, the growth of New Sneinton was one and the same with the growth of the town. Houses built some distance away on John Musters' land at this time were of a better quality than those on Lord Newark (aka Lord Manvers)'s land which shared the poor quality of adjacent houses in the town.

Fig.1 

According to Mellors, a few houses were built at New Sneinton in 1804 (1); he elaborates no further than this and acknowledges no source for his information. H Wild's map of 1820 shows a few buildings to the East of Carlton Road and Sneinton Road, standing on John Musters' plot 13 (Fig.1). Also shown is the road leading from Sneinton Road to Bond Street and West Street.



Fig.2 
Unfortunately the map does not extend to cover any more than this, and it is difficult to know how far the building extended at this time. Some indication is given by H M Wood's map of 1825. (Fig.2) This shows that the grid of streets comprising North Street, South Street, West Street, Bond Street and Haywood Street has been laid out but is largely free of buildings, beyond the few shown on Wild  's map and a couple of blocks on Bond Street and North Street.

There are no buildings at all in the area on the enclosure map of 1796, and so if Mellors' 1804 houses do exist it is reasonable to suppose that they are among those shown on Musters' plot 13. The pre-1820 houses were at that time a good distance from the town, and would have been situated amongst gardens and orchards on elevated ground and at this time, therefore, perhaps deserved the title, 'handsome village'. But building in earnest began around 1825, when the building line crept eastwards past Water Lane and Carter Gate, to the River Beck and the Sneinton Boundary.

Fig. 3 H M Wood's Map 1825
Showing the 1820 building
line in red
H M Wood's map of 1825 shows the grid of streets on Musters' plot 13, mentioned above, and it also shows that Lord Manvers' plot between the Beck and Sneinton Road had been prepared for building. A couple of houses had been already erected on plots at the corner of Manvers Street and Old Glasshouse Street (now Southwell Road), and at the corner of Manvers Street as far as the Beck. Pierrepont Street had been laid down to join Water Lane and Sneinton Road, passing to the South of Earl Street. Manvers Street had been laid between its junction with Glasshouse Street and the intersection with Pierrepont Street. Pomfret Street had been extended across the Beck and the Sneinton boundary as far as Manvers Street, and Eyre Street continued its route to Sneinton Road.


In 1820 the block between Old Glasshouse Lane and Pennyfoot Stile appears to to have had building in progress upon it, and similarly the block between Gedling Street and Old Glasshouse Lane. By 1825, in the former block, houses had been erected along the full length of Pomfret Street, white Street, Earl Street and Stanhope Street, and were crowding up against the Sneinton boundary along the West side of the Beck. In the latter block, Nelson Street, Pipe Street, Brougham Street, Sheridan Street and Finch Street had been completed. Building had progressed as far as it could to the Northeast in this block, for beyond the row of back-to-backs on the North-eastern side of Finch Street lay the Clay Field. To the Southeast of the block lay Earl Manvers' close
.


Earl Manvers began to dispose of this close of land in 1823 and early 1824. The Nottingham Journal carries advertisements offering for sale building land in lots of 200 to 1000 yards. 

'The whole will be laid out with spacious streets, commanding an immediate communication from Fisher Gate, to the upper part of New Sneinton, and affording most desirable sites for private dwellings, factories or malting offices'  (2)

 The land was sold, according to Mellors (who gives 'papers in the hands of Mr W F Grundy' as his source) subject to conditions that the houses built in Sneinton should be not less than three storeys high above the surface of the ground and must have 'front bricks and sash windows'. (3) The streets were set out as being 24, 27 or 30 feet wide (4). This land was of rather poor quality, being low and difficult to drain. It fetched 11s6d to 24s9d per square yard (5) – not as high as that inside the town (36s at its highest rate) but considering distance from the town and the poor quality of the land, not a bad price.

Mellors regrets that 'The care exercised in [the conditions upon building] was not accompanied by any forbidding cellar kitchens or back-to-back houses or narrow entries or insanitary arrangements (6). And it is interesting to compare the housing on Musters' plot 13 with that on Manvers' as it stood in 1828-9. Chapman rightly observes that the proportion of back-to-back houses in the area was lower than that in the town: what back-to-back housing does exist, exists largely in Manvers' plot. Byron Street and Camden Street show that Musters' land had no covenant prohibiting back-to-backs (unlikely anyway at this time). Musters' land is of a better quality than Manvers', being elevated, surrounded by open country and isolated from the lower part of the town. So it seems reasonable that a fair standard of building would be erected in order to attract the higher rents paid by those who could afford to be more selective in their choice of area. Manvers' plot, on the other hand, is different from the lower part of the town only insofar as it was under different ownership, and lay across the trickle of water known as The Beck, and across the Sneinton boundary. Thus the building between Sneinton Road and The Beck, and in particular that between Manvers Street and The Beck, can be regarded in everything but name as an extension of Nottingham's lower congested area.

The first buildings to appear on Manvers' close were at the junction of Manvers Street and Southwell Road, to the West of of Manvers Street and between Manvers Street and The Beck. These were built by Joseph Nall, a local builder, who bought the land in 1824. They are shown on Wood's map of 1825 (Fig.3). The plot measured 40ft in length and 20ft wide at its narrowest end. Nall managed to cram four houses into this space (7, Fig.4). These were 'through' houses, surrounding a tiny courtyard whose Southwest facing side was blocked off by the building across The Beck. (Which as yet was not culverted.)

 

Fig.4
Wood's map of 1825 needs to be handled with care with regard to Sneinton. It seems that the map must have been surveyed fairly early in the year and, because of the building activity which took place in Sneinton during that year, omits much that can claim to have been there in 1825. By the end of 1825, the whole of the land bounded by Southwell Road, The Beck, Pomfret Street and Manvers Street had been built upon (8, Fig. 4), although this is not shown to be the case by the map. The block measured 216ft x 50ft x 220ft x 20ft, and contained thirty houses: eighteen of them paired into back-to-backs, facing upon Manvers Street and Pomfret Street on the outside and Beck Yard on the inside. These back-to-backs were a continuation of those already built in White Street and Pomfret Street. They were of the standard three-storey design, arranged in terraces backing onto each other so that they had only one wall not shared. This style, says Chapman, was widely adopted in Nottingham between c1784 and 1830 (9).

Fig.5


They were coming onto the market by mid-1825:

'To be sold by auction … all those 17 freehold dwelling houses (newly erected and substantially built) in Pomfret Street and White Street in the town of Nottingham … [producing] an annual rent of £166 per annum: and also, all those 14 freehold dwelling houses adjoining to the last mentioned messuages and situated in the parish of Sneinton … producing an annual clear rental of £145 …' (10).

Press advertisements also show that property was coming onto the market in the Pierrepont Street and Kingston Street areas, which are not shown to be built up by Wood's map of 1825:

'Six newly erected dwelling houses situated in Kingston court, near Pennyfoot Stile, five storeys high, all in the hands of good tenants; are very substantially built, well-timbered, and have a pump of good water for the use of the estate. Each house has a low kitchen, house place [living room?] chamber [bedroom], workshop and attic.' (11).

This seems to be a good example of estate agent double talk: no buildings in the area could have been described as being five storeys high. Ground floor, bedroom, workshop and attic or 'cockloft' was standard. The matter seems to be resolved by the vendor's inclusion of the 'low kitchen' into the height above ground of the dwelling. The low kitchen would have been a basement or half-basement kitchen such as those which irritated Mellors. The workshops were built 'for the accommodation of twist machines.'

As with Manvers' plot, Wood's map is also misleading about Musters' land on the other side of the road. Press advertising shows that at least one large block in the South Street area of plot 13 was tenanted at the beginning of 1826. The advertising bears out the suggestion made above that there was a difference of standard between Manvers' plot adjacent to the Nottingham boundary and Musters' plot, higher and having one side looking over the Clay Field. In February 1826 a block fronting onto South Street containing houses, a brewery and a malthouse was offered for sale, ready tenanted (12). The houses were described as being ' … commodious … with gardens … bake-houses, front shops, factory adjacent thereto, and outhouses'.


Fig.6 1881 OS 25 inch
___
 Sneinton - Nottingham Boundary
Examination of the 1881 25 inch OS map of the area (Fig.6) and of Staveley and Wood's, shows that the portion of the Water Lane – Pierrepont Street – Sneinton Road – Glasshouse Street block which lies in Nottingham and outside Manvers' plot is comprised totally of back-to-backs very closely packed. That part of Manvers' plot lying between Manvers Street and The Beck, and which has already been discussed, is composed of two thirds back-to-backs, while the 'throughs' are very closely packed. The story is similar with that part of Manvers' plot which lies between Manvers Street and Sneinton Road. There are 'throughs' with adequate yard space at the junction of Manvers Street and Southwell Road (then Old Glasshouse Street), and also a row of 'throughs' with rather less yard space along Sneinton Road. Behind these facades lie the tiny courts and back-to-backs. Thus Manvers' plot seems to have been much the same as the congested lower town, with the addition of a few more desirable residences along the new, wide, roads.

Fig.3  1881 OS 25 inch map
showing part of Musters' plot 13
Examination of the same maps shows that Musters' plot contained only through houses at this time, all with adequate yard space, and, if the advertisement is right, some with gardens. These were bigger than the back-to-back type, and, with windows running along the sides of their workshops, could accommodate more lace machines. Nearly all of these survived until 1958, when they were removed during slum clearance (See Photos 1 - 4).

The vendors' descriptions of property on Musters' plot are generally more fulsome than their descriptions of property on Manvers' – going into details of scenery and elevation, employing adjectives such as 'commodious' and 'spacious', and are 'suitable for retirement' (13). They are unlikely to be subject to 'annoyance from other erections' (14). 'Substantial' and 'well built' is about as far as anyone goes in describing property on Manvers' side.

How much was paid in rent by those living in the area is difficult to discover, as is the case, apparently, with Nottingham as a whole at the time. Chapman has compiled a table, from what evidence exists, of rents paid for working class housing in the city. (Table 1).

Table 1

Rents charged for working class houses in Nottingham 1825-50


2 Storey

3 Storey

Houses of a 'Better Sort'

1825

-

2s6d

-

1829

1s6d

-

-

1833

2s3d

-

3s6d

1845

1s6d

2s2d

3s0d

1850

1s9d

2s2d

-

Source: Nottingham Review 30 September 1825, 17 April1829, 28 February1845, 25 January 1850; Nottingham Journal 8 November 1833


The only evidence of the rents paid in Sneinton is that given by the advertisements for investment property, and most of these are only useful with regard to property on Manvers' plot. What evidence there is suggests that rents for back-to-back houses were around the 4s0d mark – a very high sum indeed, compared with Chapman's average. They all come in the three storey category which Chapman prices at 2s6d. There may be some explanation for this high figure (which is based on flimsy evidence anyway) however. This was the time when the boom in house building was at its height, and when the lace trade was most prosperous. All the new property coming on the market was ready-tenanted, suggesting no shortage of demand. The district was most definitely predominantly occupied by lace makers (see below table 2), who at this time could afford high rents and were a causal factor in the housing boom. Further, Chapman's figure is an average, and it could be a misleading average, for it may consist of two widely different basic elements. As he himself says, the highly prosperous lace-makers of the 'twenties occupied different properties to the depressed frame-knitters: 


'Inevitably this divergence of fortune was reflected in housing conditions. … By the early 1830s the two social groups lived in houses of different sizes and qualities, but also in different parts of the town … the lace hands lived and worked in the upper storeys of substantial houses … in the approaches and the back streets … and the better houses of the lower town … numbers of them moved out into the new industrial villages. The framework knitters lived in the more obscure courts and alleys. Descriptions obviously refer to … back-to-backs built in the first stages of industrialisation'. (15)


The difference in rent paid by these depressed knitters and the rents paid by lace hands for newer, better, property could account for an average which approaches neither.

 

As to the basic stimulus for the growth of New Sneinton in the 1820s it can be safely said that it was the boom in the lace trade. On the sheets of signatures to the agreement to limitation of hours organised by Felkin in 1829, there are signatures belonging to 87 owners who give their address as Sneinton.

According to White's Directory of 1832, the number of new houses built during the decade was 'upward of a hundred' (16). The appearance of 87 machine owners and of 100 houses simultaneously can only mean that they were occupying the new houses – all of which (except for the small number of larger middle class houses) had second floor workshops.

The signatures are of no help in placing the owners: addresses are merely given as 'Sneinton', 'New Sneinton', or 'Old Sneinton'. White's Directory is of some little help however, giving addresses (in 1832) of 56 bobbin net makers (17). The majority - 37 - of these have their addresses on Musters' plot 13 (Table 2). Only 5 are definitely on Manvers' land.

Table 2


Distribution of Bobbin-net makers at New Sneinton as listed in White's Directory 1832

Windmill Hill

11


These are on Musters' Plot 13.

North Street

7

Bond Street

6

South Street

9

West Street

2

Haywood Street

2

Pierrepont St

4

These are on Manvers' land.

Manvers Street

1

Sneinton Road

8

These could be on either Musters' or Manvers' land depending on which side of the road they are.

Carlton Road

6


Even considering White's Directory and the hours agreement together, however, there is little in the way of hard conclusions to be had. Lace machine owners are not necessarily bobbin net makers, and frequently bobbin net machine operators rented their machines or operated them for a middleman.


What information can be had? Felkin's list (18) tells us that the 87 owners had between them 152 machines. One owner had eight, one six and a number, four. 45 had one, and there was a fair proportion of owners of two or three. There was no sharing of machines.


It is reasonable to suppose that those owning one or two machines operated them themselves, possibly with the help of employed hands, in their own homes. This may well be the case with owners of three machines (19). The owners of four or more machines would certainly have had machines and work farmed out to other operators in other houses, and there is nothing to rule out the possibility that they did not operate them at all themselves – perhaps even living in the larger middle class houses near the old village.


If the criterion of ownership of two machines or fewer is applied in classifying owners who operated their own machines in their own homes, this makes, according to Felkin's list, 73 owner-operators. White's list is obviously incomplete, which is to be expected of a county directory anyway, and which fact is shown up by comparison of the population figures and the number included in the occupations guide. Some sort of selectivity must have taken place. Bearing in mind that the practice of farming out machines and work was common enough, and also bearing in mind that the owner-operator would be a person of greater substance than an employed operator, perhaps it can be said that this selectivity operated in favour of those operators who owned their own machines. These would be the sort of people solicited for inclusion – or who would apply for inclusion. From this and from the fact that the greatest number of bobbin net makers in White's Directory occupy houses on Musters' plot 13, a tentative conclusion may perhaps be drawn. Assuming White's Directory to be selective in favour of the more prosperous lace-machine operators, there are additional grounds for believing that the area which grew up on Musters' plot was 'better' than than that which grew up across the road on Manvers' plot. The suggestions are that there were larger, more spacious houses, fewer back-to-backs and, if the reasoning and evidence in the previous paragraph are sound, a higher number of people with capital of their own, i.e. bobbin-net machines, on Plot 13 than on Manvers' plot.

***

Sneinton, a small village a mile or so to the East of Nottingham, took its first major step on the road to becoming an urban quarter in the 1820s. In the Nottingham area was concentrated an industry organised as a domestic outwork system. The industrial revolution gave a tremendous boost to this industry which, as a making-up industry, was able to profit from the abundance of cheap factory-produced yarn. A degree of prosperity in a domestic industry gave rise to a building boom of considerable proportions in the middle of the decade. A building boom in a city which could not expand outwards on most of its perimeter caused a high degree of congestion within the city. As pressure built up within the Nottingham boundary, the building line burst through into Sneinton, adjacent to Nottingham, and unencumbered by old open field restrictions.

 

Basically then, the first phase of Sneinton's growth differed from the first phases, occurring at the same time, in the growth of other areas which now form quarters of Nottingham, such as Hyson Green, Radford and Carrington. Whereas in these areas growth was brought about by migrants from Nottingham, driven out by conditions and prices in the town, the growth of New Sneinton at this time was was one and the same with the growth of the town. In quite a literal sense, Nottingham spread into Sneinton.


Having said this, there are some small grounds for considering the possibility that Sneinton Road formed a sort of demarcation line with an area more akin to the 'handsome villages' on the eastern side, built on Musters' plot, and a continuation of Nottingham's congested lower area on its western side, on Manvers' land.

 This study is by no means an exhaustive study of Sneinton's first growth phase. A long and detailed study of all the deeds to the area, which are becoming available as demolition progresses, is a priority. Perhaps when this is done, the next phase in the history of Sneinton, with the hard times in the lace industry of the late 'thirties and the 'forties, and with the degeneration of the area into a slum, can be considered.


***


Map Accompanying the Sneinton Enclosure Act 1792

(Note: Lord Newark became Earl Manvers in 1806)




Development within Enclosure plots by 1829: 
12, 13, 14 - John Musters,
15, N - Lord Newark (i.e. Earl Manvers) 


Staveley and Wood's Map, surveyed 1829, published 1831


Map accompanying a flyer for a land auction, August 1835



This plan shows Nottingham's buildings crowding up against Sneinton's boundary at the River Beck; across on the other side, Lord Newark is selling his next trenche of building land. It is a fascinating glimpse into events as they happen - lanes, footways and hedges are still there, streets are conjectural and the east side of Manvers Street is 'Subject to future decision'. Surveyors have been out measuring and draughtsmen have divided up the fields into numbered plots ready for the builders to come and bid for them. See photo 1 for an example of what was built on it.
(Note: this map did not appear in the original dissertation as it was discovered some years after it was submitted.)



Photo 1:  Manvers Square, pictured in 1931, a typical enclosed  court with tunnel entrance, on Manvers' land, shown as already built in the flyer of 1835 (above)   


The map below shows Manvers Square in its location at the corner of Pierrepont Street and Manvers Street.

Photo 2:  Manvers Square as shown on the OS large scale town plan of 1882. 
  

Photo 3:  Houses on Bond Street, Musters' plot 13, prior to demolition 1950s



Photo 4: Houses on Musters' land at the junction of North St and Carlton Rd in the 1950s showing large upper storey workshop windows


Photo 5

Photo 5 shows the corner of Manvers Street and Southwell Road - the site of Joseph Nall's houses.
.




Wood's 'Gas Bill' map of 1841, accompanying an act of parliament for supplying gas to  the areas beyond the town, shows development progressing on Manvers' land.  Also, there are houses at Sneinton Elements at the end of Windmill Lane, and at the junction of Carlton Road and Alfred Street - the Clarence Street area. The map also demonstrates the restricting effect of the unenclosed commons - soon to be addressed by an enclosure act in 1845.
H M Wood's 'Gas Bill' Map 1841

End of the Dissertation

But for more of Sneinton and me scroll down and select 'Newer post' or the Left arrow.


Notes
1/  op.cit p.10
2/ Nottingham Journal 27th December 1823 and subsequent issues to 31st January 1824, also 5th June 1824
3/ibid, and deeds to property at At Manvers St. Central Library Archives
 4/ Ibid
5/ Ibid
6/  Ibid/
7/ Deeds to the property at City Library Archives M21,385 to M21,4145; 
8/ The above deeds and also deeds to 6-26 Manvers St, and Beck Yard 1-5 inc.; Manvers St 28-34 (even); M21,436-21,503; M21,467-M21,485
9 op.cit p.140 (Revision)
10/ Nottingham Journal 28th May 1825
11/  op.cit 8th October 1825
12/ Nottingham Journal February 2 1826
13/ Nottingham Journal 20th November 1824
14/ op.cit 22 April 1826
15/ op.cit p.151 (revision)
16/ p687
17/ p689
18/ Which, in view of the fact that it so narrowly missed the 7/8 majority can be regarded as being almost a complete list. The better houses were sometimes advertised as having room for 3 machines, e.g. Nottingham Journal 8th October 1825
19/ The better houses were sometimes advertised as having room for 3 machines, e.g. Nottingham Journal 8th October 1825


Maps:
H Wild, 1820
H M Wood, 1825
Wood's Gas Bill Map

Staveley and Wood, surveyed 1829, published 1831 Staveley and Wood's Map of Nottingham, surveyed 1828-9, published 1831: a high resolution download is available at

OS 25 inches to 1 mile, OS Large Scale Town Plans and many others can be seen at the National Library of Scotland's brilliant interactive collection of historic maps at: https://maps.nls.uk/

Photos:
Picture Nottingham at